Rowing Machine NerdBuying a Used Concept2: What to Check Before You Pay
A used Concept2 is one of the best buys in home fitness. These machines are famously hard to kill, hold 75–85% of their value, and sell fast - so a well-kept second-hand unit often costs only a little less than new while still having years of life left. The flip side: because they hold value, "used" rarely means "cheap," so it pays to know exactly what you're looking at.
Think in total cost, not sticker price
The number that matters is the price of the machine plus any parts it's likely to need soon. The big one is the monitor: a PM2 or failing older monitor means an upgrade to a PM5, which is the most expensive single component to replace.[1] A slightly cheaper rower with a dying monitor can end up costing more than a pricier one with a healthy PM5.
The pre-purchase checklist
Run through these before you hand over any money - ideally with the machine in front of you:
Which monitor it has
A PM5 is ideal. A PM3/PM4 still works and gives comparable data, but both are retired - budget for a PM5 upgrade (the priciest single part) if it ever fails.
Age & lifetime metres
Check the serial number on the back of the flywheel housing, and the lifetime metres in the monitor menu, to gauge how much life it's had.
The chain & U-bolt
Look for rust or stiff links, and wear at the handle connection - cheap to fix, but a bargaining point.
The monorail
Run the seat the full length; it should glide smoothly with no grinding or sticky spots.
The flywheel spins freely
Pull the handle and let it spin down - it should be quiet and smooth, with no scraping.
Seat, footplates & shock cord
Check the seat rollers, footstraps, and that the handle returns crisply (the shock cord isn't stretched).
Which model will you find?
Most used Concept2s are Model C, Model D, or Model E - the Model D is by far the most common and the one to aim for. Knowing the model tells you what parts are available and whether the price is fair.[1] The Model D and E share the same flywheel, monitor, and performance; the E just sits higher (a 20-inch seat), which suits taller or less mobile rowers. For the full breakdown, see our Model D vs Model E comparison.
Decoding the monitor types
You want a PM5 if you can get it (Bluetooth + ANT+, backlit screen, USB logging). A PM3 or PM4 still produces the same comparable data and is perfectly usable - just know they're retired, so a future failure means upgrading.[1] Our PM5 vs PM4 vs PM3 guide covers exactly what each monitor can and can't do.
After you buy
Give it a service: oil the chain, wipe the rail, dust out the flywheel, and fit fresh monitor batteries - our Concept2 maintenance guide walks through it.[2] Then set your drag factor and you've got a machine that'll likely outlast everything else in the room. Comparing against buying new? See our Concept2 Model D review.
References
- Which Monitor Do You Have? (PM3, PM4, PM5) - Concept2
- RowErg Maintenance - Concept2
Frequently asked questions
- Is a used Concept2 worth buying?
- Usually yes - they're famously durable, hold 75-85% of their value, and have years of life left. The main check is the monitor: a PM5 is ideal, while a failing older monitor means budgeting for a PM5 upgrade, the priciest single part.
- How do I tell the age of a used Concept2?
- Check the serial number on the back of the flywheel housing, which encodes the manufacture date, and view the lifetime metres in the monitor's menu to gauge how much it's been used.
- Which used Concept2 model should I look for?
- The Model D is by far the most common and the one to aim for. The Model E is the same machine with a higher 20-inch seat. Both share the same flywheel, monitor options, and comparable data.
Jordan Lockwood (BSc, CPT)
Certified personal trainer (CPT), sports-science graduate, and lifelong rower. Jordan writes and reviews every guide on Rowing Machine Nerd.